A plan is hatching.

it involves HenryDorseCase in Christchurch

so How do I go about remove my forks to send them to chch?

or should I pay boyds $100 to do it for me?

Pull em out yourself! Bloody easy!
Remove front wheel/brakes/anything in the way.
Loosen any bolts holding the forks on.
Slide the forks out Im up on the 16th if you can wait that long, I'll give you a hand

He forget to mention how you actually stabilize the bike without the focks on.

Fit a couple of axle stands under the foot pegs.

Using decent strops/tie downs, sling them over the garage ceiling framework and back down to the main frame spars up near the headstock.

Ratchet them up alittle so the front wheel just clears the ground. Go too high and the weight shift with no forks on with be too great the the rear and it will swing the bike round or even tip it over backwards.

Take the wheel off, the fender off, the brake calipers and lines off, the clipons off, loosen the top clamps, then the bottom ones last.

Slide out the legs and wrap them in bubblewrap, especially the sliders. Any nicks or scratches on this part will rip the fock seals next time they compress past that point.

Box them up and send them off.

Stay away from the bike as it will be finely balanced until some wieght goes back on the front end again.

Re-install is the exactly opposite. BUT... check your torque setting s for the fork pinch bolts. They are very lightly tightened and over tightening will warp the tubes causing binding of the fock movement (could dive down and stay down while riding) and will mostly likely result in a sheared off bolt head, needing extraction.

I used to have to send my forks away it Phil Burgess in Waikanae every couple of months when I raced SuperX and MotoX seriously for Mainstone Yamaha. Had 2 sets plus the stock set and any one time.

mmm the advice on torque settings is good to know.

I better start googling for it I guess .. torque settings aren't found in the owners manual .. that's for sure

Cor, even the Hyosung manual has torque settings! Whats up with honda?!?!?!

Any similar setup bikes torque setting will do.

Don't forget to accurately measure where the forks are set in the triple clamps, most bikes have the top of the fork set flush with the top of the top triple clamp with only the fork cap showing above it. But incase your bike was pre-owned and the previous owner might have changed this to alter the handling of the bike, check it before you remove the forks and when re-installing them put them back to the same position.
Make sure you measure and re-install the fork as accurately as possible. Use vernier calipers to do this if you have them, both forks should obviously be set the same. Good luck mate.

Forgot all about fork height.

The lower the clamps (more for tube showing above the top triple clamp), the sharper the handling. Fast turn in at the cost of twitchier under hard braking and prone to headshake. You get a shorter wheel base, steeper steering angle/fork rake and more weight over the front end.

The higher the clamps ( less forktube showing above the clamp - or even only the caps), the slower the turn in but the more stable the bike becomes in a straight tline and under brakes. You get a longer wheelbase, longer fork rake and less weight over the front end.

If you ever change it you do it in no more than 5mm increments up to about 20-25 max. Lowering your fork oil level can achieve the same thing but at fork travel expense. Changing your oil oil wieght also has a marked effect on fork action/rebound speed etc. I went from a 10wt to a 125wt and dropped the forks 7mm in the clamps to get the JBlade to handle as I wanted. I got a more solid feel, less skip off fast sharp bumps and better turn it.

Fork oil height is measured either in cc's with a syringe or in mm with a ruler from fully compressed.

The Yamaha YZ series MX bikes were famous for being super stable but not so easy to turn in off berms.
The Honda CR series MX bikes were known to undercut any bike on a SuperX track and were weapons for block passing! They paid the price in being the worst bike at headshaking you to death on highspeed straights over rough ground though.

The YZ was the longer wheelbase of the two.
The CR had the steeper headset angle.

I have a few links to suspension and setups if anyone ever wants to have a semi educated play.

ok guys forks are out, and on the courier ... w00t

Money has changed hands ... I'm getting:

• forks with racetech cartridges sprung for 75 kilos,
• extra fork springs for 85 kilos
• a 46DR ohlins shock setup for 80 kilos.

I have:

• a service manual which has torque settings etc .. schweet
• Hard nipples

next question:
I have s FROSTY rear stand which lifts the bike by the swing arms.
The manual suggests I can remove the rear shock by this process:

1. remove seat
2. remove side cover
3. detach remote reservoir
4. undo lower shock bolt
5. undo upper shock bolt

it doesn't mention removing the rear wheel ? .. .does this sound right?
Also .. is a rear stand sufficient do you think?

From what i remember you need to be able to move the swingarm out of the way so you can unbolt the shock etc...put a pic up?
Jadedblade should know the next step

how much for this exercise? I going to have to do mine but I putting it off as long as I can

well I got the deal of the century from HenryDorsetCase ... $1000 plus my forks as a trade

If you go to RT or Shaun you'll pay $2k for a rear shock, and who knows how much for forks.
Smoky did his bandit 6 months ago and paid $3200 I think

Sorry TA you lost me when you mentioned you had hard nipples,
i was a little worried about where it was heading

Its different bike to bike when it comes to removing the shock. BUT... suspending the bike on the swingarm ISN'T a good idea on a dirtbike and I'd imagine it would be the same on a roadbike.

The shock holds the rear up.... is you remove it while its still being held up by the stand, the swingarm will slam up into the rear fender. Or in this case, rear will drop onto the wheel. The stand may hold it but you'll need a second man atleast, to left the back end back up to fit the new shock.

A dirt bike is held during this task under the engine frame rails on a pit stand.

my thoughts ...

put the front on axle stands quite wide apart to provide some sideways stability.
Then lift the rear by ropes under the rear part of the chasis/rear seat, and hang the bike from the ceiling.

Too hori ??